The service manual doesn't say how long to run the pump so as long as there's no air in the lines, 30 seconds per corner should be sufficient. This will cycle the ABS pump and it's the only way to get air out of the ABS pump. Cycle through them and follow the software prompts. After you plug in the cable and start the software, click on ABS pump. If your car is equipped with ABS you must use a VCDS diagnostic cable or equivalent to cycle the ABS pump. "If you did get an air bubble in the lines while bleeding, you must get it out. If you are bleeding the ABS pump I suggest using the manual pedal method with a pressure bleeder to keep the fluid topped off and moving out." "The advantage of manual pedal bleeding is that it builds much higher pressure in the brake system to push out any old fluid. This shouldn't take more than 1 minute of running the pump per corner but your situation may vary so consult a professional if you're not sure." Do this a few times until there's no air in the brake lines and system. To build higher pressure than what is possible with a brake bleeder, do the manual "helper pumps the brakes while you bleed method" method. Hit "Go!" This triggers the ABS pump, during which time you should bleed the system. Plug in your VCDS diagnostic cable and select module 3 - ABS brakes.
"If air got into the lines, also bleed the ABS pump, if equipped. Relevant info from the link provided by BobnOH: I have VCDS but haven't explored this with it yet!Īnotherperson, when you are triggering the ABS and the bleed screw is opened, is someone also pushing down on the pedal? Not sure when the last (if ever) time the fluid was flushed. My brake pedal feels "soft" compared to other cars I've owned, and then it has a noticeable initial bite. The right question is why don't you have the cable yet? The VCDS cable from Ross Tech is 100% worth the money, asking if you can do this without the cable is the wrong question. I hate that and I'm wondering if those cars all needed to have their ABS systems bled. I've driven a lot of newer cars that had this same symptom where the pedal would sink way low and then grab all of a sudden.
I think one more run and I'll have it cracked. I actually worked up to it in 5-10 second bursts and while my car isn't perfect yet its MUCH better. The instructions at myturbodiesel suggest 30 seconds which feels like FOREVER when you're sitting there with your foot on the pedal. It'll run the pump, then have you hold the pedal, run the pump some more, release the pedal, step on the pedal, run the pump, etc for each corner. So what you do is connect up VCDS, go into the brake module and run the output tests. So I replaced the rear calipers and like one of the other posters had a ton of pedal travel before anything happened, this after bleeding with a pressure bleeder. I just went through this and got my car figured out.
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